Instituto Bazzar

Rio de Janeiro: os vegetarianos do século XIX, no Rio de Janeiro

{"time":1770226846272,"blocks":[{"type":"paragraph","data":{"text":"A dieta vegetariana do século XIX, no Rio de Janeiro, se inspirava no modelo inglês da Vegetarian Society e seus 3.000 sócios. Não pregava apenas “não matar animais”. Num artigo do Auxiliador da Indústria Nacional, de 1861, a “seita dos legumistas” implicava também em não juntar sal ou especiarias aos alimentos; não separar o farelo da farinha de trigo; tomar somente água – nada de chá ou café; fazer exercícios “gymnasticos” e tomar banho, além de usar vestimentas simples “conforme a Natureza”."}},{"type":"paragraph","data":{"text":"No século passado, na década de 1970, o movimento da alimentação chamada de “natural”, no Rio, e o vegetarianismo tinham muita intersecção. Não à toa, o sanduíche natural, dieta certa da geração saúde, se associou à cultura dos esportes ao ar livre, como a asa delta e, em especial, o surf, e se tornou uma identidade fortíssima das praias de São Conrado e Barra."}}],"version":"2.18.0"}

continuar lendo

Estado do Rio: a história gastronômica da Serra do Rio de Janeiro

{"time":1770389466747,"blocks":[{"type":"paragraph","data":{"text":"The plateau of the mountainous region of Rio de Janeiro concentrates a European heritage visible in its architecture, agriculture, and above all, its gastronomy, where artisanal traditions shape the identity of the territories at the table. Founded in 1818 by King João VI, Nova Friburgo is the first colony of non-Portuguese immigrants in Brazil. It was the Swiss, and later the Germans, who brought the culture of charcuterie and the artisanal processes linked to the raising and preparation of pork. This memory remains in the pork-based dishes, sausages, and long preparations still present in mountain restaurants."}},{"type":"paragraph","data":{"text":"In the mid-19th century, Nova Friburgo became an important exporter of lard to the capital. Before refrigeration, lard was used to preserve food, from beans and vegetables to meats. In 1887, the Jornal do Commercio highlighted the products of Fazenda Gavião, owned by the Baron of Nova Friburgo, as \"first-quality bacon\" and \"pure pork lard.\" Since then, pig farming in Nova Friburgo has remained active; in the early 2020s, the municipality had more than fifteen artisanal charcuterie producers."}},{"type":"paragraph","data":{"text":"One of the reflections of this movement can be observed between the center of Nova Friburgo and the RJ-116 highway. In Mury, there is the artisanal charcuterie Porco Alado, the only one in Brazil with an underground cellar, whose hams, copas, and sausages appear on the menus of restaurants in Rio de Janeiro. Along other roads in the mountains, waterfalls, wooded areas, and the formations of the Três Picos State Park emerge."}},{"type":"paragraph","data":{"text":"Crossing Teresópolis, the route culminates in Petrópolis, in the Serra dos Órgãos mountain range, chosen by Dom Pedro II as a summer retreat. The presence of not only the imperial family, but all the nobility and elite of Rio de Janeiro left behind palaces and mansions that still decorate the landscape. This presence also marked the local gastronomy: poultry with fruit sauce, veal and lamb shanks, as well as the classic filet Wellington, expression of an English aristocratic cuisine, were served in mountain restaurants. Alongside these hot dishes, cold preparations such as pâtés, mousses and rillettes began to occupy a recurring place in the couverts, a tradition recorded since the 19th century. In 1844, the Jornal do Commercio reported the construction of the palace that would give rise to the new settlement; a few decades later, around 1900, the city already had restaurants and received summer visitors."}},{"type":"paragraph","data":{"text":"The cuisine of the Serra region also preserves the memory of backyards: poultry, pâtés, fruit preserves, and homemade delicacies that over time have migrated from the domestic environment to the tables of hotels, guesthouses, and restaurants. In Petrópolis, around 1850, German colonists produced dairy products, breads, cakes, and biscuits, raised pigs for sausages and smoked meats, and supplied local establishments, consolidating the presence of charcuterie and pâtés on the mountain table, preparations that revealed the full use of the animal, a common sustainable practice at the time."}},{"type":"paragraph","data":{"text":"Over the years, already at the beginning of the 20th century, these traits remained and expanded throughout the mountainous region. Restaurant menus began to frequently incorporate animals raised in backyards, often accompanied by fruit sauces, as well as vegetables, cured meats, cheeses, cod, and pasta, composing a repertoire present in different cities and restaurants."}},{"type":"paragraph","data":{"text":"In Teresópolis, restaurant menus reflected the presence of dairy products and European cuisines. Cheeses produced at the Cheese School, such as minas frescal, raclette, and moleson, supplied the city's restaurants. Pasta occupied a central place, with spaghetti, cannelloni, ravioli, lasagna, and cappelletti served in establishments like La Bella Massa and Piccola Torino, alongside dishes such as green chicken lasagna, shrimp lasagna, and cappelletti alla Napoli. In the Parque Regadas area, Spanish dishes appeared, such as Spanish-style cod, as well as fondues, raclettes, and fruit sorbets. Restaurants like Gota d'Água served trout with almonds, feijoada, and chicken with okra, while traditional Portuguese restaurants offered cod with potatoes and broccoli sauce, hake fillets with onions, and sweets like ovos moles (a traditional Portuguese sweet made with egg yolks and sugar)."}},{"type":"paragraph","data":{"text":"In the outskirts of Petrópolis, especially in Corrêas and Itaipava, the culinary repertoire included French, German, and Italian-inspired cuisines. In Corrêas, dishes such as filet mignon flambéed in cognac with mushrooms, trout with green grapes, grilled chicken with orange and passion fruit jelly sauce, and flambéed roast beef appeared, in addition to German preparations such as kassler, sauerkraut, sausages, and lentils. In Itaipava, restaurants specializing in pasta served caponata, carpaccio, and ricotta and spinach strudel, alongside dishes such as duck with blackberry sauce, rabbit in butter, and crepes with goat cheese."}},{"type":"paragraph","data":{"text":"In that same region, in Itaipava, the Faraona restaurant structured its concept around the cultivation of vegetables and legumes, the raising of goats and piglets, and the use of guinea fowl—or \"faraonas,\" as they are called in Italian—a bird traditionally raised in the mountains. The concise menu included appetizers such as special carpaccio, Roman porchetta, and salad with guinea fowl, herbs, tomato, and celery. The pasta dishes included artichoke ravioli, classic lasagna, tagliolini with tomato and smoked ricotta, and tagliatelle with mushrooms. Main courses featured filet mignon with herbs and potatoes, roasted guinea fowl breast with polenta and Brussels sprouts, kid goat with ragu and white beans, and roasted suckling pig with browned potatoes."}},{"type":"paragraph","data":{"text":"Further on, in the Vale das Videiras, the relationship between landscape, time, and food is established through bars and restaurants connected to the valley's old farms. Since the mid-20th century, the region has received visitors for weekend lunches. Over the following decades, restaurants and inns structured menus featuring pâtés, poultry, rabbit, slow-cooked meats, and pasta."}},{"type":"paragraph","data":{"text":"In the early 2000s, this set gained prominence with restaurants such as Locanda della Mimosa, where dishes like fresh fish with three-tomato sauce, porcini mushroom lasagna, and lamb loin with almond sauce became part of the local repertoire; Faraona, in Itaipava, with its duck and guinea fowl pappardelle in wine sauce; Solar Fazenda do Cedro, with veal ossobuco with flambéed fruit; and Pousada Fazenda das Videiras, where rabbit marinated in red wine was served at dinners and tasting menus. At Pirilampo, a restaurant located in Vale das Videiras, preparations such as duck vol-au-vent with dates, confits, lamb ragù, and seasonal dishes associated with winter menus emerged."}},{"type":"paragraph","data":{"text":"In Nogueira, a district of Petrópolis, this repertoire reappears in a contemporary key. At the helm of Angá Ateliê Culinário, Lydia Gonzalez revives local traditions such as pâté, a preparation associated with the full use of backyard animals, as well as dishes that dialogue with cachaça and cornmeal."}},{"type":"paragraph","data":{"text":"\"This sense of belonging and this relationship with my surroundings are part of our cuisine. Much of what we express comes from this connection with the place where we are,\" says Lydia Gonzalez. Thus, the Serra Fluminense region presents itself through its geography, migratory flows, agricultural practices, and the table setting, where restaurants articulate history, technique, and time."}}],"version":"2.18.0"}

continuar lendo